Liber Pater: The €30,000 Bordeaux That Isn't Legally Bordeaux
In 2019, a small estate in Bordeaux's Graves region released its 2015 vintage at €30,000 a bottle — the most expensive release price in wine history, more than a full case of Pétrus. The estate was barely a decade old, had no classification, and the wine could not even call itself Bordeaux: its label reads, humbly, "Vin de France." The estate is Liber Pater, and its founder, Loïc Pasquet, argues the price is fair for something money can usually not buy at all — a taste of Bordeaux as it was before the phylloxera plague rewrote the vineyards of Europe. Recreating 1855 in a Vineyard Almost every vine in Bordeaux today is grafted onto American rootstock, a survival measure adopted after phylloxera destroyed Europe's vineyards in the late 1800s. Pasquet planted his gravel plot at Podensac the way it would have been planted before the plague: ungrafted vines, on their own roots, at the old density of 20,000 vines per hectare. Stranger still are the grape varieties — n...